C & R Licenses -- I'll try here
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RangerWill175
- Ranger
- Posts: 349
- Joined: June 2nd, 2005, 2:06 pm
C & R Licenses -- I'll try here
Just received my C&R license and I'm trying to figure out where to go first. Anyone had any good/bad companies they've dealt with? What guns would you be looking at or trying to avoid? The only old military rifle I have now is a Chinese SKS. Lots of fun, ammo is cheaper than shit. I'm mainly interested in weapons <$200. I know these are not "sniper" quality but I like the old military style weapons.
There are a lot of nice people in the world...I'm just here to help even it up.
Co C 1/75 1/77-9/78
SWCDQC - Combat Diver
Rgr Class 1&2-78
Det 1 Co A 1/20 SFGA 81-83
Co H 122 IN (LRSU) 89-90
Co B 2/19 SFGA 90-93
http://www.linkedin.com/pub/alan-willett-p-g/11/643/83" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Co C 1/75 1/77-9/78
SWCDQC - Combat Diver
Rgr Class 1&2-78
Det 1 Co A 1/20 SFGA 81-83
Co H 122 IN (LRSU) 89-90
Co B 2/19 SFGA 90-93
http://www.linkedin.com/pub/alan-willett-p-g/11/643/83" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Ranger Will, you should check out the M48 ( K98 made in Yugoslavia ) over at Mitchell's Mausers.
http://www.mitchellsales.com/rifles/hist_m48/index.htm
You can get a Garrison Grade rifle for 200 or you can get the Collector Grade with a bunch of extras for 300. The nice thing about the Collector Grade is that they were never issued to any soldiers and only test fired to ensure they are still operating as intended, or so the company says. I am planning on getting one in September or so.
How was getting your C&R from the ATF? Was it just the 30$ fee, and how long did it take you?
http://www.mitchellsales.com/rifles/hist_m48/index.htm
You can get a Garrison Grade rifle for 200 or you can get the Collector Grade with a bunch of extras for 300. The nice thing about the Collector Grade is that they were never issued to any soldiers and only test fired to ensure they are still operating as intended, or so the company says. I am planning on getting one in September or so.
How was getting your C&R from the ATF? Was it just the 30$ fee, and how long did it take you?
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RangerWill175
- Ranger
- Posts: 349
- Joined: June 2nd, 2005, 2:06 pm
Yeah, I think $30 was right. Took about 10 weeks. Check out
http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting200 ... /index.asp
for C&R info.
http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting200 ... /index.asp
for C&R info.
There are a lot of nice people in the world...I'm just here to help even it up.
Co C 1/75 1/77-9/78
SWCDQC - Combat Diver
Rgr Class 1&2-78
Det 1 Co A 1/20 SFGA 81-83
Co H 122 IN (LRSU) 89-90
Co B 2/19 SFGA 90-93
http://www.linkedin.com/pub/alan-willett-p-g/11/643/83" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Co C 1/75 1/77-9/78
SWCDQC - Combat Diver
Rgr Class 1&2-78
Det 1 Co A 1/20 SFGA 81-83
Co H 122 IN (LRSU) 89-90
Co B 2/19 SFGA 90-93
http://www.linkedin.com/pub/alan-willett-p-g/11/643/83" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Can you use M-1 Garands for the C&R or are they restricted to the CMP program? I'd put a Garand up against most others.
“You got the right to remain silent, so shut the fuck up, ok? You got the right to an attorney. If you can't afford an attorney, we will provide you with the dumbest fucking lawyer on earth. If you get Johnny Cochrane, I'll kill ya!â€
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RangerWill175
- Ranger
- Posts: 349
- Joined: June 2nd, 2005, 2:06 pm
lawdog
Under 18 U.S.C. Chapt 44 " All Original military bolt action and semiautomatic rifles mfd. between 1899 and 1946" are classified as Curious or Relics. The C&R Lic can be used with the CMP in lieu of showing the required marksmanship training.
Under 18 U.S.C. Chapt 44 " All Original military bolt action and semiautomatic rifles mfd. between 1899 and 1946" are classified as Curious or Relics. The C&R Lic can be used with the CMP in lieu of showing the required marksmanship training.
There are a lot of nice people in the world...I'm just here to help even it up.
Co C 1/75 1/77-9/78
SWCDQC - Combat Diver
Rgr Class 1&2-78
Det 1 Co A 1/20 SFGA 81-83
Co H 122 IN (LRSU) 89-90
Co B 2/19 SFGA 90-93
http://www.linkedin.com/pub/alan-willett-p-g/11/643/83" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Co C 1/75 1/77-9/78
SWCDQC - Combat Diver
Rgr Class 1&2-78
Det 1 Co A 1/20 SFGA 81-83
Co H 122 IN (LRSU) 89-90
Co B 2/19 SFGA 90-93
http://www.linkedin.com/pub/alan-willett-p-g/11/643/83" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Ranger Will, I agree with Lawdog, a CMP M-1 Garand is a tough deal to beat. But it does take you over $200.
If you really want to stay under $200, you might want to look at some Enfield SMLEs. They're plentiful enough that you can still get a reasonable price, particularly with a C&R license.
.303 Brit ammunition is a little bit obscure, but the Enfields use detachable magazines instead of stripper clips, like most of the other bolt actions of the period.
If you really want to stay under $200, you might want to look at some Enfield SMLEs. They're plentiful enough that you can still get a reasonable price, particularly with a C&R license.
.303 Brit ammunition is a little bit obscure, but the Enfields use detachable magazines instead of stripper clips, like most of the other bolt actions of the period.
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Deathy McDeath
- Embryo
- Posts: 25
- Joined: July 9th, 2005, 12:04 am
Well Ranger RangerWill175, if you really want to have some fun with old Mil-Surp weapons, stop on over at any Big-5 and pick up an old Mosin Nagant for around 75$. Every Big-5 I've been to has been running this promotion, though it may not be in your area. This gun is a lot of fun to shoot (Even if the ammo isnt quite as cheap as 7.62X39), and doesnt take too much maintainence.
There are only 2 problems I see with the rifle:
-7.62X54r ammunition is a little hard to come by
-This is the hardest kicking weapon you'll ever find. The fact that there arent any recoil pads available for it only exarcebates the problem. Every shooting session I've gone to has left me with a nice big red mark after about 40 rounds.
There are only 2 problems I see with the rifle:
-7.62X54r ammunition is a little hard to come by
-This is the hardest kicking weapon you'll ever find. The fact that there arent any recoil pads available for it only exarcebates the problem. Every shooting session I've gone to has left me with a nice big red mark after about 40 rounds.
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RangerWill175
- Ranger
- Posts: 349
- Joined: June 2nd, 2005, 2:06 pm
Deathy McDeath wrote:Well Ranger RangerWill175, if you really want to have some fun with old Mil-Surp weapons, stop on over at any Big-5 and pick up an old Mosin Nagant for around 75$. Every Big-5 I've been to has been running this promotion, though it may not be in your area. This gun is a lot of fun to shoot (Even if the ammo isnt quite as cheap as 7.62X39), and doesnt take too much maintainence.
There are only 2 problems I see with the rifle:
-7.62X54r ammunition is a little hard to come by
-This is the hardest kicking weapon you'll ever find. The fact that there arent any recoil pads available for it only exarcebates the problem. Every shooting session I've gone to has left me with a nice big red mark after about 40 rounds.
McD
I've been looking at some Mosins but the price seemed too good. I hate to order sight unseen but for that price I could take a chance.
There are a lot of nice people in the world...I'm just here to help even it up.
Co C 1/75 1/77-9/78
SWCDQC - Combat Diver
Rgr Class 1&2-78
Det 1 Co A 1/20 SFGA 81-83
Co H 122 IN (LRSU) 89-90
Co B 2/19 SFGA 90-93
http://www.linkedin.com/pub/alan-willett-p-g/11/643/83" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Co C 1/75 1/77-9/78
SWCDQC - Combat Diver
Rgr Class 1&2-78
Det 1 Co A 1/20 SFGA 81-83
Co H 122 IN (LRSU) 89-90
Co B 2/19 SFGA 90-93
http://www.linkedin.com/pub/alan-willett-p-g/11/643/83" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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tsod275
You hit my arena for sure. I currently have many various rifles that are old military issued.
It all comes down to what you want to spend, origin, era, caliber, etc....I can help you a lot more if you let me know what you are looking for.
I currently have a Mosin Nagant M91/30 and a M44. Only difference between the M38 and M44 Mosin is that the M44 is a later version. The Russians felt that the rifle needed a fixed bayonet. So, the M44 was born. The ammo is currently pretty cheap. It fires a 7.62x54R and is an absolute canon in the M44 version. One catch though. Your accuracy is effected when the bayonet is not extended. The harmonics of the weapon are effected if it is not extended. The M44 is approx. 40" and about 9lbs. So, for a carbine, it is heavy and feels like you were slapped up side the mellon when fired. The M91 is a tack driver when zeroed. Of course, it was the mainstay of the sniper sections for the Russians. Only difference was that the bolt handle was bent down to allow for the PU scope and mount. A quick note, if you DO have to switch out parts between the M44 and M91...no big deal. The bolts are completely interchangeable. I can place a 1946 M44 bolt/assembly in a 1942 M91 and it works fine. Not preferred of course, but can be done. If you are ever curious as to the year the ammo was made, look at the 2 digit number on the base near the primer. The 2 numerals are the year. Have been firing some Yugo ammo lately and it works the same as the earlier stuff.
The Mausers across the board are excellent in anyones safe. The 8mm is a fun round to fire, HOWEVER....be careful of what you fire through it. Much of the cheap 8mm ammo out there is corrosive. Not a big deal, but something to be aware of. If it comes from places like Portugal, Turkey or early Germany and is cheap...chances are it is corrosive. Just clean good after your done. I have a German 1944 Steyr-Diamler-Pusch K98 with intact markings ("SS" rune as well) and fires like a beauty. Fired it today actually. The Yugo or Turkish versions will do just as well for you. Don't go looking for a rifle like mine unless you have deep pockets. If it is German and a Russian capture, chances are it is ok. The Russians did a good job refitting them to place in their warehouses.
The Jap Arisaka Type 99 is also another VERY nice rifle. Harder to find, but very accurate. Has a couple interesting safety features as well. Japs were better at protecting their grunts than their pilots for some reason. There is a hole present in the upper receiver that is there so in case the round explodes in the chamber, the gas can escape forward the firers face out the top. Also, the bolt is such that the gas can hit a back of the bolt in a gap that is present and sends it back forward towards the barrel. You won't find many with the "Mum" in tact. Avoid the "last ditch" versions unless you need one as a collector. Reason for the "last ditch" name. Anti-aircraft sites and the monopod were originally present as well, but good luck finding one with those.
The Springfield 1903 is a superb weapon and was dumby proof for the hooah's as well. The 30.06 round is a good round, but the .308 is better for distance/accuracy in comparison. Watch mismatched parts. You can get taken on price and find out later it isn't worth as much due to the parts being the wrong era for the rifle date.
If you are looking for an Enfield....that is another ball game...A lot are not in good shape. Look before you buy. Regardless of model. They have been beat to hell. This is in reference to the cheapo's you see out now.
I could go on and on when it comes to C&R weapons. Just ask me and I'll help you out.
When it comes down to it....follow these important steps:
1. Pick the era you are looking at buying a firearm for.
2. Decide the origin. (i.e. German, American, Russian...etc.)
3. Choose which firearm you want to purchase.
4. Weigh your pick on value for down the road. If you don't like it, better to resell for a equal or better price than take a loss.
5. Make sure you can get the ammo if you want to shoot it. Sucks when your ammo is worth more than the rifle when you want to shoot it.
6. Learn your markings for that rifle
7. Read shotgun news, gunlist or go to auctionarms.com and compare prices.
8. Learn the mishaps that rifle is known for.
(Example: The Canadian MK 111 (Model 10 Ross) had many problems. One problem was if the bolt wasn't assembled correctly, once fired the bolt would be launched through the shooters head.)
9. Get a book on how to assemble/dissassemble the firearm. (If you didn't know the metal hole in a Mausers butt stock was a take down for the bolt, you will scuff up your hands pretty good.)
10. Last but not least.....ASK QUESTIONS EVEN IF YOU THINK YOU KNOW THE ANSWER!!
Sorry if this is lengthy, but this is one big thing I am involved in. If you need any help finding something or knowing about a rifle, let me know.
RLTW!!!
It all comes down to what you want to spend, origin, era, caliber, etc....I can help you a lot more if you let me know what you are looking for.
I currently have a Mosin Nagant M91/30 and a M44. Only difference between the M38 and M44 Mosin is that the M44 is a later version. The Russians felt that the rifle needed a fixed bayonet. So, the M44 was born. The ammo is currently pretty cheap. It fires a 7.62x54R and is an absolute canon in the M44 version. One catch though. Your accuracy is effected when the bayonet is not extended. The harmonics of the weapon are effected if it is not extended. The M44 is approx. 40" and about 9lbs. So, for a carbine, it is heavy and feels like you were slapped up side the mellon when fired. The M91 is a tack driver when zeroed. Of course, it was the mainstay of the sniper sections for the Russians. Only difference was that the bolt handle was bent down to allow for the PU scope and mount. A quick note, if you DO have to switch out parts between the M44 and M91...no big deal. The bolts are completely interchangeable. I can place a 1946 M44 bolt/assembly in a 1942 M91 and it works fine. Not preferred of course, but can be done. If you are ever curious as to the year the ammo was made, look at the 2 digit number on the base near the primer. The 2 numerals are the year. Have been firing some Yugo ammo lately and it works the same as the earlier stuff.
The Mausers across the board are excellent in anyones safe. The 8mm is a fun round to fire, HOWEVER....be careful of what you fire through it. Much of the cheap 8mm ammo out there is corrosive. Not a big deal, but something to be aware of. If it comes from places like Portugal, Turkey or early Germany and is cheap...chances are it is corrosive. Just clean good after your done. I have a German 1944 Steyr-Diamler-Pusch K98 with intact markings ("SS" rune as well) and fires like a beauty. Fired it today actually. The Yugo or Turkish versions will do just as well for you. Don't go looking for a rifle like mine unless you have deep pockets. If it is German and a Russian capture, chances are it is ok. The Russians did a good job refitting them to place in their warehouses.
The Jap Arisaka Type 99 is also another VERY nice rifle. Harder to find, but very accurate. Has a couple interesting safety features as well. Japs were better at protecting their grunts than their pilots for some reason. There is a hole present in the upper receiver that is there so in case the round explodes in the chamber, the gas can escape forward the firers face out the top. Also, the bolt is such that the gas can hit a back of the bolt in a gap that is present and sends it back forward towards the barrel. You won't find many with the "Mum" in tact. Avoid the "last ditch" versions unless you need one as a collector. Reason for the "last ditch" name. Anti-aircraft sites and the monopod were originally present as well, but good luck finding one with those.
The Springfield 1903 is a superb weapon and was dumby proof for the hooah's as well. The 30.06 round is a good round, but the .308 is better for distance/accuracy in comparison. Watch mismatched parts. You can get taken on price and find out later it isn't worth as much due to the parts being the wrong era for the rifle date.
If you are looking for an Enfield....that is another ball game...A lot are not in good shape. Look before you buy. Regardless of model. They have been beat to hell. This is in reference to the cheapo's you see out now.
I could go on and on when it comes to C&R weapons. Just ask me and I'll help you out.
When it comes down to it....follow these important steps:
1. Pick the era you are looking at buying a firearm for.
2. Decide the origin. (i.e. German, American, Russian...etc.)
3. Choose which firearm you want to purchase.
4. Weigh your pick on value for down the road. If you don't like it, better to resell for a equal or better price than take a loss.
5. Make sure you can get the ammo if you want to shoot it. Sucks when your ammo is worth more than the rifle when you want to shoot it.
6. Learn your markings for that rifle
7. Read shotgun news, gunlist or go to auctionarms.com and compare prices.
8. Learn the mishaps that rifle is known for.
(Example: The Canadian MK 111 (Model 10 Ross) had many problems. One problem was if the bolt wasn't assembled correctly, once fired the bolt would be launched through the shooters head.)
9. Get a book on how to assemble/dissassemble the firearm. (If you didn't know the metal hole in a Mausers butt stock was a take down for the bolt, you will scuff up your hands pretty good.)
10. Last but not least.....ASK QUESTIONS EVEN IF YOU THINK YOU KNOW THE ANSWER!!
Sorry if this is lengthy, but this is one big thing I am involved in. If you need any help finding something or knowing about a rifle, let me know.
RLTW!!!
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tsod275
Hey, fucknuts, you just won the following...........Next time write something worth writing, get a profile and introduce yourself....wary wrote:Online Proxy Checker, proxy checker, proxies checker, check proxies list, online checking proxy, check free proxies, check free proxylist, proxi checker, proxy checking, proxies list cheker, socks proxy checker, check socks proxies, socks 5 proxy checker, socks 4 proxy checker, HTTP proxy checker, socks proxy check, online check socks proxies, check list of proxies: