New buyer question

[Dud]

Based upon a lot of the posts in this forum, I've been looking at the RRA website and trying to piece together a .223 carbine with the different components I might want. I'm not looking for anything super sexy (I'd rather spend the cash upgrading certain aspects of my six element ) but am looking for something with CQB in mind. This will be my first rifle bought and was hoping I could get some advice on a few of the pieces to choose from:

1) Is the difference between a stainless barrel worth the cash over the chrome moly barrel, or chrome-lined?

2) Is the difference between the NM two stage trigger worth it over the standard trigger?

3) Would it be worth it to purchase a free floating barrel for the carbine, or would I be better served to save the cash for a follow on rifle with a better reach?


Any advice would be greatly appreciated, especially for when I get to justify the price of the rifle and its various components/why I chose them, then I might actually sound like I understand what the hell I'm talking about. Please bear in mind that on the first date with my wife SHE took ME to a gun range with HER firearms (which pretty much secured her being my future wife in my eyes), so I gotta make this sales pitch on the first try.

Thanks for your time

[Trigger]

1. Chrome Moly lined barrels generally have a longer life span round count wise; assuming they are fired in the same manner as a comprable stainless steel barrel. If you're going for absolute precision, I'd use a stainless steel/unlined barrel, as they are considered more accurate. The "SPR" profile is very popular now for 16 and 18'' SS barrels. It's a decent compromise between weight, rigidity, and cooling ability.

2. Yes, there is definitely a difference. White Oak Armament and ADCO Firearms both sell tuned versions of the RRA NM trigger for just a hair more, and there is a noticable difference between a tuned NM and a stock NM. Other options include drop in triggers from Timney or Chip McCormick. You can choose between 3lbs and 4lbs models as well as single or two stage.

3. Hell yes. Free floating is as simple as changing out the forearm. On an AR-15, free floating can account for a significant gain in accuracy. You can get all sorts of railed forearms, smooth forearms, or a combination of the two ( a smooth forearm with rails only where you need them). As the Ranger above mentioned, you can put a longer forearm than normal on by using a low profile gas block.

I would highly advise you build the weapon; at least the lower. You'll save a ton, you'll have fun, and you'll learn something. I can get you the link to a nice set of step by step instructions if you need them; no special tools are required. If you choose a collapsible stock, a spanner wrench for the castle nut is helpful; but you can get by with using punches if you have to (the wrenches are $8 and worth it).

Building an upper is very easy, but requires a barrel or armorer's wrench and an upper receiver vice block. It's really as simple as sliding the barrel into the receiver, installing whatever forearm you buy (they all go on slightly differently), installing whatever gas block/front sight base and gas tube you choose (clamp on models are very easy to install), and screwing on the muzzle attachment of your choice.

Right now the price of lowers and parts is sky high due to Obama inspired panic buying. Hell, it's hard to even get certain parts (lowers, lower parts kits, and many more) right now. Good luck!

- Trigger